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Still, when people ask me for Vegas recommendations, I draw a blank-all the shiny casino restaurants imported from New York and California blurring into one long perfectly fine meal I wish I had enjoyed somewhere else. I’ve visited semi-regularly over the years-like a penny tumbling toward the bottom of a sofa, every American finds themself in Las Vegas a certain number of times in their life-and I know that I have managed to feed myself and even to write about doing so. Somehow I can never remember any of them. There are a lot of good things to eat in Las Vegas.

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